A Culture Lover's Guide to 10 Great Cafés in Saigon

Over the past decade, café business has been on the rise in Vietnam’s largest city. A young and expanding Saigonese middle-class and a steady increase in Western tourism, accompanied by an enduring taste for colonial-style establishments in Vietnam, have given rise to an array of new coffee-houses, lounges and eateries. From withdrawn smoothie spots to bar hybrids that get louder as the night draws on, these are ten of the best cultural cafés in Saigon, or as it's officially known, Ho Chi Minh City.

Saigon skyline at night | © Aleksandr Zykov
Saigon skyline at night | © Aleksandr Zykov

The Cube

One of the newest additions to Saigon’s scene, The Cube has a smooth, industrial sheen to its décor and a Latin twist to its schedule. It scores food points with a menu that changes daily, bringing Western twists to old Vietnamese classics – stewed pork, papaya soup, salmon salad and curries all make an appearance. Tapas is also available during theirSpanish-style happy hours, along with Spanish wine cocktails and salsa nights. The Cube also hosts various educational events, offering bar tending courses, craft workshops, cooking lessons and the occasional seminar. DJs perform regularly, and if the dance floor isn’t for you, then the outdoor seating area can provide a fresh escape.
The Cube Interior | Courtesy The Cube
The Cube Interior | Courtesy The Cube

Chez Vous Coffee Lounge

This French inspired, cushioned space of the Chez Vous Coffee Lounge opposite Ben Thanh Market is awash with pastel shades and muted, multi-coloured bulbs. The interior blends a certain European 1970s living-room warmth, contemporary lighting and a dash of Vietnamese décor to keep you rooted in Saigon. Their menu has an attractive range of Western and Asian fare, although many come for the fruit juices and smoothies, served in twee jam jars and corked bottles. Cocktails are also available. There are acoustic nights held some evenings and outdoor seating is popular during the evening hours.

La Fenetre Soleil

A homely, airy space located on the second floor of an old warehouse building, this ‘window to the sun’ soaks up the light through its huge French windows. A popular daytime hang-out for Saigon hipsters, La Fenetre Soleil blends exposed brick, antique furnishings, gilt frames and mosaic tiles to achieve a cherished mix of old French charm and modern Saigonese vibe, while fur cushions and welcoming sofas tempt guests to lounge the afternoon away. The café specialises in Japanese-Vietnamese food – the California rolls and duck with Dijon mustard are popular, and the passion fruit crepe comes highly recommended. They also function as an evening venue, hosting salsa nights, jazz performances, live bands and lounge pianists.

La Rotonde

For many, La Rotonde’s main selling point is its grand interior design – its romanticised, high-ceilinged attempt to capture some of the grace and beauty of the Old Saigon, as well as its nursed nostalgia for the ancient Indochina era. The spacious main hall takes in light through huge main windows overlooking a peaceful boulevard, and Bach Dang Wharf can be seen in the distance to the right. A changing daily lunch special served in traditional Vietnamese style feeds its busier noon-day crowd and a wide array of fresh juices and cocktails is available for fending off the city’s heat.

L’Usine Café

The 2010 opening of L’Usine fashion boutique and café proved so successful that they’ve recently opened a second outlet. The original, based in the heart of Saigon near to the Caravelle and Continental hotels, sits in a huge French era warehouse space. The fashionistas’ first pick, downstairs harbours global clothing trends as well as work by local designers, whilst the upstairs café serves sandwiches, cake, coffees and juice. There is also an art gallery showcasing monthly exhibitions and live performances. The new store has opened up on Le Loi St, on the strip between the Rex Hotel and Ben Thanh Market, but the original has recently expanded its kitchen and boasts a more extensive food menu.

Mockingbird Café

Although the street outside may not be Saigon’s most salubrious, the four flights of stairs heading up to this hidden coffee spot lead you to views over much of the city’s downtown financial district, including the Soviet-gothic façade of the State Bank of Vietnam. A small, leafy outside balcony at Mockingbird Café lets you sit and sup while you gaze on the bustle far below. Inside, chalk murals and art prints dot the walls. The café is set in an old colonial apartment block, still lived in despite its frayed edges, and the shop’s atmosphere concentrates some of the raffish, unkempt charm sported by the rest of the building. Alcoholic drinks are also served.

The Fig Café

The Fig Café is a spiritually inclined and organically sourced hideaway, roughly a ten-minute drive from the city centre. Like many of the city’s favoured ‘garden cafés’, it boasts a peaceful outdoor space in which to hide from the diesel and the traffic, complete with lotus ponds, Buddha statues and tropical foliage. The accomplished contemporary Asian design, both inside and out, is worth admiring. They specialise in oriental cuisine, mango salads, BBQ pork and sweet cakes, and provide a selection of French, Chilean and Australian wines, as well as cocktails. The Fig Café has also announced that its boutique store will soon be selling decorative home items designed by local artist Dzung Yoko.

The Observatory

A comparatively new kid on the block, opening in late 2013, The Observatory recently relocated to District Four but still sits easily within walking distance of Saigon’s main backpacker area. It prides itself on its cocktail menu and lively schedule, hosting a steady stream of DJs, film nights, reading groups and art exhibitions, and aspires to be something of a cultural hub for young Saigonese and tourists looking to push further into the city’s eclectic mix of alternative entertainment. An information centre with a ‘Saigon Underground’ interactive map, moreover, gives recommendations on places tour guides might not think of.

Villa Royale Antiques & Tea Room

A firm choice for wandering aesthetes and collectors, the opulent Villa Royale has grown in popularity as both an antique gallery and tea-house since its 2013 opening. Whilst sampling an array of baked pastries, cakes and hot drinks, guests can marvel at a dazzling spread of paintings, china, trunks, silverware and vintage clocks from around the globe. TheAustralian owner repairs and upholsters antique furniture using traditional Vietnamese cloth, and is happy to share his extensive knowledge of objets d’art with anyone passing through, be they connoisseurs or curious tourists. Villa Royale also hosts special exhibitions and private functions.

Windows Café 4

The Windows Café is a livelier spot than some of its more retiring, lounge-like contemporaries. It is popular with locals, has a large open terrace, multiple floors affording you park and street views, and offers a comparatively affordable day-time menu. Its location is prime for tourists, lying just across from the historic Reunification Palace, and being in the vicinity of both the Old Central Post Office and Notre Dame Cathedral. In the afternoon, it offers some respite after a few heavy hours’ sightseeing. As the evening draws on, the café turns to bar, the music goes club, and the seats pack out. Young Vietnamese often use it has a leaping point leading to the rest of the night.
Saigon's Reunification Palace, nearby to Windows Café 4 | ©Diego Delso
Saigon's Reunification Palace, nearby to Windows Café 4 | ©Diego Delso

By Rob Yates, from Theculturetrip.com
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